High Ammonia Levels In My Tropical Fish Tank | My Aquarium Club
High levels of ammonia can be caused by a number of things. A few are over feeding, Dead fish, Rotting Plants, and last but not least too many fish in your tank.
My goldfish started to get sick with ich and I check the PH and it was to high so I checked ammonia 3.0 the nitrate 0, nitrite 0, PH 7.2. Tap water .50 for ammonia PH tap 0, Nitrate tap 0, Nitrite 0. I have removed my fish 4 goldfish small to medium size and started treament for the ich they are in a bucket with an air pump. I just check the water again and the ammonia is between 1.5 and 2.0. I did a 80% water change and it is not doing the trick. I have a 39 gal Oceanic self contained the filter is a Fluval 205 which I was told is a good filteration system and can handle the tank size. Have you any answers for this problem
Since you have added fish without cycling your tank correctly, your ammonia levels will be high for a few weeks until your bacterial colony catches up. In the mean time, when ever you detect ANY ammonia, do water changes until you read 0 again. That is the only way your fish will survive the cycling process.
Cichlid-Forum • High ammonia level in fish tank
May 24, 2017 - Use neutralizing drops
Standard test kits measure total ammonia (ammonia plus ammonium)without distinguishing between the two forms. The following chartgives the maximum long-term level of ammonia-N in mg/L (ppm) that can beconsidered safe at a given temperature and pH. Again, note that a tankwith an established biological filter will have no detectable ammonia;this chart is provided only for emergency purposes. If your levelsapproach or exceed the levels shown, take emergency action IMMEDIATELY.Should ammonia levels become high during the cycling process,corrective measures will need to be taken to prevent fish deaths. Most likely, you will simplyperform a sequence of partial water changes, thereby diluting ammoniato safer concentrations.In an established tank, ammonia should be undetectable usingstandard test kits available at stores. The presence of detectablelevels indicates that your bio filter is not working adequately,either because your tank has not yet cycled, or the filter isnot functioning adequately (e.g., too small for fish load, clogged,etc.) It is imperative that you address the problem (filter) inaddition to the symptoms (high ammonia levels).Every couple of days, do a 10%-15% , and after about a week,take a sample of your water to a fish store to get it tested. Most will test fresh water for a minimalfee, or even for free! If the store you got the fish from won't, checkto see if there is another local store that will. At this point, yourwater should test with high ammonia and maybe a trace of nitrite. Ifit isn't, don't worry. Just give the tank time. The cyclingprocess usually takes six to eight weeks.Keep your tank water at a constant temperature and the ph level slightly high. Eliminate ammonia by slowly dropping the temperature in the tank if your fish can tolerate it. For instance, a tank at 68 degrees Fahrenheit has less ammonia than a tank at 80 degrees Fahrenheit. However, when the temperature drops below 60 degrees, the good bacteria begin to decrease so avoid dropping it too low. Use pH strips available at your local fish supply store and test the water weekly. Keep the pH level between 8 and 8.5 to maintain the ammonia level. Adding carbonate to salt water increases the pH level and helps eliminate ammonia.